Mexico City Travel Guide: Best Neighborhoods, What to Do, Where to Eat, written by a local

I grew up in Cuernavaca where the chilangos (people from Mexico City) would spend their weekends. I would go to Mexico City regularly mostly for doctor’s appointments, a celebration, show, or spend time with friends and family. Getting to know the city really made me fall in love with it, its architecture, its museums, its culture, and people. This guide is a little bit of what I’ve learned as a local to give you the ultimate Mexico City travel guide.

With more than 150 museums, great pyramids, unique neighborhoods, amazing food, rich history and fun activities, Mexico City is an ideal place to spend a few days while traveling Mexico.

The guide is divided into neighborhoods and the activities to do in each one. For example, if you need things to do in Mexico City near the airport for a layover, check out Centro Historico and the Basilica de Guadalupe sections. Or maybe just to learn more about Colonia Roma.

Just remember that Mexico City has a lot of traffic, so plan at least an hour (maybe even an hour and a half) to get to places.

Mexico City a Little History

It is incredible to think that beneath the asphalt and the sky scrappers there once stood a lake. Downtown Mexico City was built on an island where, according to legend, the nomadic people of Aztlan found their promised land where an eagle was devouring a snake on top of a prickly pear. This is the Mexican symbol and our flag!

Pre-colonial Tenochtitlan

The name “Aztecs” is erroneously attributed to the Mexica, since they came from Aztlan to Lake Texcoco in the early 14th century. Their capital city of Tenochtitlan became one of the biggest cities in the world with a population of perhaps 200,000 Mexica living among these natural and artificial islands. This was far bigger than any city in Spain at the time. The whole Valle de Mexico maybe held 1.5 million people including the other groups around the lake. Today, Mexico City is one of the biggest in the world with around 23 million people in its metropolitan area!

The Mexica were fierce warriors, violent, and without mercy, but they were also incredibly smart and technologically advanced as they built a planned city with a hydraulic system, canals, and chinampas— raised gardens on the lake to supplement their food sources which you can still see in Xochimilco.

They would ask for tribute in the form of goods such jade, turquoise, cotton, vegetables, and cacao. Did you know they ate fresh fish from the ocean? Their road systems reached all the way to the sea and they had runners doing relays so the elites could have fresh fish! In the mid 15th century, the Mexica allied with Texcoco and Tlacopan, lakeshore free states, to conduct wars against Tlaxcala. The Mexica needed a steady supply of prisoners for human sacrifices to their main god Huitzilopochtli, the god of war. The god of water, Tlaloc, also had a sanctuary framing the Templo Mayor.

Spanish Conquest

The Spaniards arrived in 1519 and conquered the city by 1521 with the help of the people of Tlaxcala, who the Mexica had terrorized for centuries. They also had an advantage: a smallpox epidemic that decimated the population of Mexico. The beliefs of the Mexica also contributed to the fall of their empire. Their ruler, Moctezuma, believed that Cortes was the reincarnation of their god Quetzalcoatl, and so the Spanish were welcomed into Tenochtitlan like gods, showered with gifts, and food.

Not only did the Spanish decimate the population of Mexico, but they also imposed their own religion, destroying temples, statues, and the will of the people. The Spanish attempted to convert the New Spain to catholicism by building new temples on top of the old ones. Maybe you’ve noticed this when you visited the Cathedral and the Templo Mayor.

While the Spanish prospered, the indigenous people of New Spain suffered. Their population shrank due to different epidemics like smallpox and measles, as well as their horrible treatment as slaves. Some clergy men interceded for them and got them basic human rights, or at least to be treated as barbaric children to be punished but not killed during the Inquisition. Lots of indigenous people were sent to slave camps for years.

Three hundred years after the conquest of Mexico, Mexico gained its independence from Spain. Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, Josefa Ortiz de Domingues and other Mexican elites started the fight for independence because were in unhappy with how Spain treated them. They were criollos— Spanish born in Mexico— and treated as inferior to the ruling class of peninsulares, or Spanish born in Spain.

The fight for independence started early morning of September 16, 1810 with the Grito de Dolores by Miguel Hidalgo which is why we celebrate Mexican Independence Day on the night of September 15! This fight wasn’t easy or organized and it took 11 years to finally sign a treaty for independence on August of 1821.

Porfiriato, Revolucion, and Contemporary Mexico

Then from 1877 to 1910 Mexico entered the modern age with the Porfiriato, or the dictatorship of Porfirio Diaz. During this time the railway system, the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Reforma Avenue, and so many more were built. Mexico grew wealthy but this wealth became concentrated in only a small minority; this combined with political repression, bad working conditions, foreign ownership (yet again) of Mexican resources led to the Mexican Revolution in 1910.

Some of the most celebrated heroes of Mexico, like Zapata, are from the tumultuous period after “La Revolucion,” as well as its artists like Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Alfaro Siqueiros, Rufino Tamayo, and Remedios Varo, whose art you can see in some of our museums and murals in historical buildings, like Bellas Artes.

In 1968, Mexico held the summer Olympics which led to one of the defining events of modern history, the Tlatelolco Massacre. Joining student protests around the world, about 200 Mexican students protested the government in the Plaza de las Tres Culturas ten days before the Mexico Olympics. These protestors were killed by the government to “protect”the Olympic Games.

This history has led to the Mexico we have today: with its mestizaje or incredible mix of indigenous, African, and European ancestry, corruption which widely used during colonial times, inequalities and discrimination mostly a by-product of the caste system introduced by the Spaniards where the color of the skin mattered more than anything, and the never ending humor that allows Mexicans to deal with even the worst of times. We make fun of everything, even death. Sometimes in morbid ways, but others in light-hearted ones like our calaveritas for Dia de Muertos. Or the way we make up nicknames and tease others.

In spite of it all, or maybe because of it, Mexicans remain welcoming and will always lend a helping hand.

How to Get Around Mexico City

Check each section for specifics on rideshare, walking, biking, public transportation and Turibus!

Rideshare/Uber

In order to get around Mexico City I would recommend Uber or another ride app. They tend to be really cheap, and more secure than getting a taxi off the street. The most I’ve paid for an Uber was $15 USD and that was because I went from Polanco to Perisur and there was traffic because of a marathon! Other than that, you will be paying between $2 and $8 USD.

Walking

You might be wondering if it is safe to walk in Mexico City. Short answer is yes. I walk a lot, especially when I am in Polanco, Roma, Condesa or Centro Historico.

Some warnings: I never walk long distances or by myself at night. I have been catcalled, but as a woman who travels by herself a lot, I’ve had this experience in other countries as well—worst one was in Barcelona. Be aware of your surroundings at all times, don’t flash valuables, and leave expensive jewelry at home!

Some of these areas are super close to each other, for example: you can easily walk from Polanco to Cuauhtemoc and Juarez— these last two only divided by Paseo de la Reforma. Then from Juarez you are practically in Roma Norte.

Be careful not to walk further east of Juarez or Roma as you may find yourself in La Doctores, a notoriously dangerous area of Mexico City.

Bicycle

All over Polanco, Condesa and Roma you find the ecobicis, bicycles you can rent and use to move around these areas. They’re an amazing way to see the city, but be careful as Mexico City is not very bike friendly. Take advantage of Sunday’s ciclopista, when Reforma is transformed into a pedestrian area and you can bike, walk, or skate to your heart’s desire.

Public Transportation

Mexico City has the Metro, MetroBus, Tren Ligero/Trolebus, RTP, Cablebus, Tren Suburbano, and the Mexibus.

The Metro Bus line 7 that goes all the way on Paseo de la Reforma to the Basilica de Guadalupe and back. It is very nice, with more modern buses. It is fast as it has its own lane and cheap. It is a great way to move around Reforma and go from Polanco to the Basilica de Guadalupe. The Metro Bus Line 1 on Insurgentes takes you all the way to Ciudad Universitaria, to see the murals at UNAM.

The metro runs from 5:00 a.m. to midnight on weekdays, 6:00a.m. to midnight on Saturdays, and 7:00 a.m. to midnight on Sundays and holidays. Check the map here. Its very cheap, only $5 pesosor about $0.25 USD!. Be careful when using the metro as you can miss a stop and end up in a neighborhood you do not want to be lost in.

Ride the Turibus, a hop-on-hop-off bus in Mexico City

One of my favorite things I did recently was taking the tour bus in Mexico City with my friends. We were pretending to be tourists and had such a fun day. Be patient if there is traffic, that is life in Mexico City!

The Turibus goes to all the main stops with three main circuits I recommend:

1. Downtown Tour— this is the one we did getting on and off in Antara Mall
2. Southside Tour—connected to Downtown on Cibeles stop and takes you to Museo Frida Kahlo and UNAM
3. Basilica—which includes Plaza Garibaldi and the Basilica, connected via the Zocalo stop

DO NOT STAND UP WHEN YOU ARE IN THE UPSTAIRS PART! My friend Cris took a hard slap in the face from an electric line covered in rubber. The good thing was that she wasn’t hurt, and we had a laugh about the dark line covering her face.

What to eat in Mexico City

If you are wondering the foods you can’t miss in Mexico City try our antojitos or the Mexican equivalent of snacks. Check out this post on foods to try and where to eat great Mexican food both street food and restaurants I love.

This Mexico City travel guide includes restaurants and some foods at each restaurant I think you should try. They are divided by neighborhoods to make it easier, so if hunger strikes when visiting the Historic Downtown or Condesa and Roma, you know where to eat!

You have to eat these staples of Mexican street food while in Mexico City:
Tacos
Sopes
Esquites
Pozole
Tacos
Quesadillas
Gorditas
Birria

Be adventurous and try some escamoles (ant eggs) or chinicuiles (maguey worms) or chapulines (grasshoppers)! Have some chocolate from its birthplace. Mexican hot chocolate is my absolute favorite as it is not too sweet and has cinnamon! Or if its winter, try some champurrado— rice drink with chocolate.

Where to Shop in Mexico City

If you’re looking for authentic Mexican souvenirs, check out this post.

For general shopping, our malls or department stores are a great place to shop.

Polanco: Antara, Palacio de Hierro, and Masaryk Street.
Coyoacán & San Ángel: Oasis, and Mitikah

When to Visit Mexico City

Mexico City is in a valley, allowing for very nice weather year round. Average temperatures year round in Mexico City are in the 20s celsius (70s F). We get mild winters with lowest temperature at around 5C, and very rarely temperatures of 35C in the summer.

Spring	The best time to visit Mexico City is in the spring with jacarandas in full bloom! Semana Santa (Holy Week) and Easter Week locals might leave the city and less traffic.
Summer	Rainy season! Mostly rains at night but the city can flood. Warm weather but not too hot. Take a day-trip to Las Estacas or Tepoztlan to enjoy the weather.
Autumn	Fall is a great time with the Mes Patrio and Mexican Independence Day on September 15. October and November see the city turn orange with cempasuchil or marigold, Day of the Dead altars and celebrations!
Winter	Dry season. Chilly but not cold— 5° celsius (40F) at night and 18-24° celsius (low 70F) during the day. Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe (December 12), Posadas (Mid-Dec to the 24), Día de los Reyes (January 6), and Día de la Constitución (February 5).

Mexico City Neighborhoods or Colonias

Doctores- Go to the Lucha Libre

The one exception to my DO NOT VISIT LA DOCTORES is if you go to the Luchas. It is definitely a must do and unique in Mexico City!

Lucha libre is a Mexican institution and a great show. You cannot miss a night at the luchas even though there may be some chicken bone throwing. Go to the luchas on a tour to make it easier to understand everything that is going on and some of the Mexican slang they may be shouting. Maybe you can do a meet and greet!

Centro Histórico

Things to do in Historic Downtown

Historic Downtown Mexico City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an amazing neighborhood in Mexico City. I’ve gone to give people tours, for work, and just for fun. Here are my favorite things to do in Centro Historico:

Walk through downtown Mexico City

Wander its streets and see the Correo Mayor building, Casa de los Azulejos built in 1500s with tiles from China, Francisco I. Madero pedestrian street, and the Barrio Chino, or Chinatown. Listen to the organilleros as they play the barrel organ on the streets.

Zocalo

Officially it is called the Plaza de la Constitución and it is one of the world’s largest city squares. It is home of the Palacio Nacional, Catedral Metropolitana, Templo Mayor, and other government offices.

There is always has something going on: the ice rink in winter, Day of the Dead mega ofrenda, free concerts, exhibitions, food markets, and sometimes mass protests. You may also see Danzantes Aztecas . The ceremonial Mexican flag is raised at 8am by the army and lowered at 6pm.

Mexico City Cathedral

The Catedral Metropolitana was built on top of the main temple of Tenochtitlan, the Templo Mayor, and used most of its stones. The Spaniards built it between 1573 and 1813 on top of the temple to show their domination and to crush the spirit of the Mexican even more. Due to the long time it took to build, there are many architectural styles like Gothic, Baroque, Churrigueresque, and Neoclassical.

Museo del Templo Mayor

The Great Temple, Teocalli of Tenochtitlán, was the main sacred site of the Mexica people where we think it is the exact spot where the Mexica say the eagle perched on the cactus eating the snake— Mexico’s symbol. In 1978, electricity workers found the 8-tonne stone-disc carving of the Aztec goddess Coyolxauhqui, so the city decided to demolish the buildings and excavate the Templo Mayor.

You can see the Templo Mayor from east of the Cathedral without paying, but I do recommend paying for entrance to the site and museum. Almost all the explanations are in Spanish, so better to hire a guide. One of the most impressive things for me is the Wall of Skulls, where stone skulls represent the hundreds of human sacrifices performed by the Mexica.

Palacio Nacional

The National Palace is the seat of the federal branch of the Mexican government. You can see the amazing Diego Rivera murals that adorn the main stairwell and walls on the second floor.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes is an incredible concert hall and arts center is one of Mexico City’s most iconic buildings. It was commissioned by Porfirio Diaz and started by Italian architect Adamo Boari in an art nouveau style. The Mexican Revolution halted its construction, but it was eventually finished in the 1930s by Federico Mariscal with art deco style on the inside. Enter the museum to see the murals of Mexico’s most famous muralists including Rufino Tamayo, David Alfaro Siqueiros, José Clemente Orozco, and Diego Rivera. Diego Rivera’s destroyed Rockefeller Center mural is here.

You can also catch the Ballet Folklórico de México or seasonal opera and symphony performances. The interior is incredible and the ballet was a lot of fun! My friend and I were probably the only Mexicans there, but it was worth the trip. Especially seeing the stained-glass curtain designed by Dr Atl and assembled by Tiffany & Co.

Torre Latinoamericana

The Torre Latinoamericana was the first successfully built skyscraper on a highly active seismic zone. It was built in 1956 and has survived two major earthquakes, 1985 and 2017. It is 45 stories tall and there is an observation deck on the 44th-floor and a lounge bar on the 41st-floor.

Museo de Arte Popular (MAP)

This is my favorite museum in Mexico City! The MAP promotes and preserves Mexican handcrafts and folk art, with exhibits of textiles, pottery, piñatas, alebrijes, masks, and much more. This museum is the one that organizes the call for and then chooses the best colossal alebrijes for the Day of the Dead exhibition on Reforma.

Plaza Garibaldi- Mariachi Square

If you want to check out some mariachis and the Museum of Tequila and Mezcal. Practice caution while in the plaza!

Where to Stay in Historic Downtown

There are several great hotels downtown Mexico City, some even with an amazing view of the Zocalo! Here are my top:

Where to Eat – Downtown

If you want to have some lunch or cocktails overlooking this amazing Zocalo, go to the Gran Hotel restaurant (16 de Septiembre #82) that has a great terrace, or check out el Balcon del Zocalo (5 de Mayo #61).

For more traditional Mexican food that is delicious try Limosneros (Ignacio Allende #3) where you can try some escamoles, tortilla soup, hibiscus taquitos, or cuitlacoche tacos. Don’t forget to ask for the salsa de molcajete.

There is also El Cardenal (Juárez 70) with amazing nata and breakfast options.

Another restaurant option that is less touristy and very local is Los Especiales on Francisco I. Madero Street where you can have some amazing tacos de canasta.

La Villa—the Basilica of Guadalupe

There is a saying in Mexico not all Mexicans are catholic, but all Mexicans are Guadalupanos. This is because there are more worshipers of the Virgin of Guadalupe than there are practicing and registered Catholics. The most important Catholic pilgrimage is to the Basilica de Guadalupe. It is visited by several million people every year and for December 12, Our Lady of Guadalupe’s Feast day. In 2017, more than 20 million people visited the sanctuary, of which 7.2 million were in the days leading up to December 12.

Even if you are not Catholic, a visit to the Basilica of Guadalupe is a must to understand Mexican culture and devotion to La Morena. There are multiple songs in honor of the Virgen of Guadalupe, my favorite being La Guadalupana.

Where to Eat- La Villa

Try Tacos Susy ( Av Ricarte 480 bis) for some tacos al pastor, nopales con queso, or tacos de bistec. Or go have some delicious pozole at Pozoleria Jalisco (Avenida la Fortuna 100)- one of my favorite places, their tostadas are amazing! There are so many other little places to eat around this area for quesadillas and birria, but don’t venture forth too far. It is not one of the safest areas in Mexico City, but I’ve also never had a bad experience, so just stick to Calzada de los Misterios or Calzada de Guadalupe.

Where to stay in La Villa

I do not recommend staying here. My ex was raised in this neighborhood of Mexico City, and while nothing bad ever happened, I wouldn’t walk alone and the lights in my car got stolen. We had to lock up my car and put his on the street even though mine wasn’t fancy!

Reforma & Zona Rosa

Paseo de la Reforma is Mexico’s most iconic street. It was started by the Emperor Maximiliano and then after his overthrow, Porfirio Diaz finished it. It is lovingly called Mexico’s Champs-Élysées.

Avenida Reforma is long and goes from Constituyentes in Lomas until it forks into Calzada de Guadalupe and Calzada de los Misterios in Tlatelolco. For this guide we are interested in Reforma between the Bosque de Chapultepec and Centro Histórico. This avenue has lots of important monuments, and buildings.

Colonia Juarez is located between Centro Historico and Chapultepec Park, and between Reforma and Avenida Chapultepec— which separates Juarez from Roma Norte. La Juarez is known for the Zona Rosa, the LGBTQ capital of Mexico City has a great number of gay bars and clubs, sex shops, and for the drag queens fans, some of the best imitators are found here every night! It is also home to Koreatown. La Juarez also has one of my favorite Japanese restaurants, Sushi Kyo.

Cuauhtémoc neighborhood, on the other side of Reforma from Juarez, is home to a lot of embassies like the US and British embassies, and the Mexican Stock Exchange. So if you need your embassy, it most likely will be here or close by.

Things to do in Zona Rosa and Reforma

Angel de la Independencia:

The Angel or Monumento a la Independencia is in fact not an angel, but a statue of Nike, the Greek goddess of Victory. It is such an iconic part of Mexico City, Mexican culture, and celebration. If Mexico wins a soccer game people come and celebrate at the Angel. If there is a demonstration that needs national attention, then the Angel is where to go.

Monumento a la Revolución

This monument to the revolution is not technically in Reforma but Plaza Revolución is easily accessible from Reforma. It is very close to Zona Rosa so I am including it here. It is the tallest triumphal arch in the world at 222ft or 68m. It is actually a mausoleum for revolutionary figures and there is an exhibition space, art gallery, and the National Museum of the Revolution!

Walk along Reforma

This avenue is beautiful and on Sundays it becomes a pedestrian and cycle only street! There are always exhibitions along the tree-lined sidewalks, for example monumental alebrije for Día de Muertos.

Bike or walk Reforma down from the Angel de la Independencia to Chapultepec, especially on a Sunday when it is pedestrian only between 8 a.m. and 2 p.m

You can walk along it and see monuments like the Fountain of the Diana Cazadora whose real name is the “La Flechadora de las Estrellas del Norte;” Monument to the Mother, Monument to Cuauhtémoc, Monument to Columbus, and the Estela de La Luz— a very tall monument (104m) commemorating the bicentennial of Mexico’s Independence that no Mexican likes, understands, or can comprehend cost 1 billion pesos.

Museo del Chocolate

Visit the Chocolate Museum and learn about the history of chocolate, see some chocolate sculptures and stock up on Mexican chocolate for yourself or as a souvenir.

Where to Eat In Reforma and Zona Rosa

One of my favorite things about Mexico City is that it has so many amazing restaurants, not only of Mexican food but any type of food you can imagine. Some of my favorite restaurants in the city are actually Japanese. Rokai Ramen-Ya (Rio Ebro 89) is an amazing small place with delicious food, superb ingredients, and slurp worthy ramen or Sushi Kyo for, obviously, sushi!

For amazing street tacos in Mexico City go to Ricos Tacos on Av Insurgentes Sur 76 in Colonia Juarez.

For churros, go to Churreria El Moro (Rio Lerma 167).

If you like speakeasies, try Handshake or Parker & Lenox. Or if you like a more chill, book vibe, go to El Pendulo where you can have a bite surrounded by books in this cafe/bookstore.

Polanco- my favorite neighborhood in Mexico City

To be honest, Polanco is one of my favorite areas. I think it is one of the safest neighborhoods in Mexico City, and it has so many things to do, eat, and enjoy. It has a lot of the best museums in the city, the biggest park, and Masaryk, Mexico City’s Fifth Avenue.

It is also one of the most affluent so prices are a bit steeper in this area than in others of the city. There is so much to do, eat, and enjoy in Polanco, I will just give you here my top things you can’t miss when visiting Mexico City.

Things to do in Polanco

Museo Nacional de Antropología

It is no wonder the National Museum for Anthropology is the most visited museum in Mexico city as it contains the largest collection of ancient Mexican art, the Sun Stone or Aztec Calendar, and the museum itself is a grandiose art exhibit in itself.

Some of the highlights are one of the four basalt warrior columns from Tula’s Temple of Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli, a jade mask of the Zapotec Bat god or the 20 tonne Olmec head carvings in Oaxaca room, the recreation of Pakal’s tomb in the Maya room, the Sun Stone in the Mexica (Aztec) exhibit, and the amazing umbrella roof in the courtyard.

Don’t miss the traditional dance of the voladores de Papantla as they spin around a 20 meter pole until they reach the bottom! They perform on days the Museum is open, from Tuesdays-Sundays from 11am-6pm with shows every 30 minutes for tips.

Bosque de Chapultepec

This park is huge! It is double the size of Central Park in NYC and measures 1,700 acres. Chapultepec Park is home to museums, botanical gardens, a zoo, a lake, and restaurants. It has some of the best museums in Mexico City.

You can rent a swan pedal boat in the lake, visit the butterfly sanctuary, or enjoy a coffee and book at Libreria Porrua with views of the lake.

Castillo de Chapultepec

Chapultepec Castle was the only real castle in America. It was the home of the Spanish viceroys and the Emperor Maximiliano of Habsburg. It later became the Presidential House until 1940 and today it is home to the Museo Nacional de Historia. The building itself is part of Mexican history with so many important historical events taking place here like the occupation of the United States during the Mexico-US War (1846-1848).

The National History Museum is open Tuesdays-Sundays from 9am to 5pm and costs $100 pesos (~$5 US). Again this museum is free on Sundays for Mexican citizens and residents.

Museo de Arte Moderno

The Museo de Arte Moderno is another one of the best museums in Mexico City. It houses work by famous 20th century and contemporary artists like Dr Atl, Diego Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco, Tamayo, O’Gorman, Leonora Carrington, and Frida Kahlo. If you love Frida, Las dos Fridas has a home in this museum.

The Museo de Arte Moderno is open Tuesdays-Sundays from 10:15 a.m. to 5:45 p.m. with ticket costing $95 MXN (~$5 US). Sundays entrance is free.

Tamayo Museum

This museum houses some works of famous Mexican artist, Rufino Tamayo, as well as other contemporary artists. It is a small museum worth visiting during its special exhibits as it produces innovative expositions of international contemporary art like Yayoi
a few years ago. Free on Sundays so a good day to visit the museum.

Museo Soumaya

The Soumaya Museum holds the personal collection of Mexico’s billionaire, Carlos Slim. It is named after his wife, an enigmatic monument and architecturally unique in Mexico City. It has an incredible collection of Mexican and international historical and contemporary art.

The best way to see the museum is from the top down. Head on over to the top floors where the largest number of works by sculptor Auguste Rodin outside of France lives and go floor by floor. The 70,000 piece collection is divided into thematic areas with art ranging from ancient huge ivory carvings to Mexican art and miniatures. You can find works by artists like El Greco, Claude Monet, Camille Pisarro, Edgar Degas, Vincent Van Gogh, Joan Miro, Salvador Dali, Jose Clemente Orozco, Diego Rivera, and more.

Museo Soumaya is open from 10:30am to 6:30pm and free to enter, making it another great free activity to do in Mexico City!

Museo Jumex

Another little gem right next to Museo Soumaya. It holds the private collection of Eugenio Lopez Alonso which includes works by Andy Warhol, Gabriel Orozco, Jeff Koons, Marcel Duchamp, among others.

They’ve also held great exhibitions like James Turrel’s Passages of Light, Rogerio Duarte’s Marginalia 1, and Andy Warhol’s Dark Star. Museo Jumex has multiple activities for kids and free online tutorials.

Museo Jumex is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday to Friday and Sundays, and 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Saturdays. It is also free!

Go shopping on Masaryk Avenue

The Fifth Avenue of Mexico City, Masaryk is lined with high end stores and restaurants. It is beautiful to walk and do some people watching of Mexicans out and about. Here you can see the incredible diversity of the Mexican people, courtesy of mestizaje, so next time you encounter a Mexican outside of Mexico, you never again exclaim “You don’t look Mexican!” You’ll see Mexicans are a mix pot of ancestry and traits!

Anyway, walk along Masaryk for some shopping or try one of the restaurants. A decently priced one is Guzina Oaxaca and it is delicious! You should also try a coffee at Cafe Garat.

Polanquito

My grandma will kill me if I write it’s Polanquito and not La Zona de Polanco. This little area within Polanco is between Parque Lincoln, Alejandro Dumas street, Anatole France and Masaryk. It has delicious restaurants like Sylvestre and Dulce Patria and my favorite coffee shop/bookstore, Cafebreria El Pendulo.

Parque Lincoln is also very nice to walk around and there is a tianguis del sabado en Polanco, or a local market on Saturdays.

Where to Eat in Polanco

Find some of my favorite restaurants and some of the best in the world in Polanco. The following restaurants are more on the expensive side like high-end comida de autor Mexican restaurants:

Pujol (Tennyson 133, Polanco) tasting menu $3,595 (or $3,995 barra de tacos) $$$$

Quintonil (Av. Isaac Newton 55, Polanco) tasting menus is $5,100 mxn per person $$$$$

Carmela y Sal (Torre Virreyes, Calle Pedregal 24, Virreyes) their tostadas de mentiras are amazing! $$$ In Virreyes—not Polanco but super close— inside the Torre Virreyes, better known as El Dorito, but worth a visit.

Guzina Oaxaca (Masaryk 513) is more affordable great Mexican food. Try the taquitos de cerdito, ceviche de pescado con xoconostle or the mole with tortillas made right there.

El Farolito (Av Isaac Newton 130), a Polanco institution, for tacos al pastor. My parents used to go to El Farolito on dates when they were 17, when the small grey napkins where they gave you the tacos were used to count the amount for your bill. Don’t forget to order chicharron de queso, a fried cheese folded tortilla.

Maque Polanco for breakfast with its decadent concha con nata or just great Mexican food

El Cardenal (Av. Paseo de las Palmas 215)— this other location that is technically in Lomas de Chapultepec but so close to Polanco—but be aware that on weekends for breakfast it might be full. My grandma and I waited for her to eat their nata and cleaned out her little bowl of nata with her fingers!

Tierra Garat for their coffee, their mocha frappuccino is the best I’ve had and my husband loves their Espresso Garat. They use Mexican chocolate and coffee in their drinks and snacks. There are two locations in Polanco but the one on Av. Isaac Newton 178 is always less crowded than the one on Masaryk.

Roma and Condesa- hip and fun neighborhood

The Colonia Roma, including the northern end of Roma Norte, and Colonia Condesa are the hipster heart of Mexico City. You can find small local theatre performances, small cafes, bars, and great restaurants. It is a chill area and very pet-friendly. Roma is very popular for its galleries and restaurants, while Condesa is more laid back.

If you watched Roma from Alfonso Cuarón, then you’ve seen what this neighborhood was like in the 1970s, a neighborhood planned for the upper class during the Porfiriato but that by the 70s it was a middle class neighborhood in slow decline. In the early 2000s, it started to become gentrified, and today is a fun and hip, young neighborhood.

Things to do in La Roma and Condesa

Alvaro Obregon Avenue

Walk around the streets, especially Avenida Alvaro Obregón and Colima filled with shops, restaurants, boutiques, galleries, and artisan markets.

Parque Mexico

Take a stroll around lush trees and promenades of Parque Mexico, and look out for the dog school that is held here for some furry therapy.

Mercado de Medellín

Browse the local market or eat at the food court in the back.

OMR Gallery

One of my recommended off-the beaten path museums with different exhibits and free entry.

Ice Cream and Churros

Try an ice cream at Roxy. Or churros at the El Moro location in Roma Norte with an instagrammable interior.

Local Brewery

Have a beer at a local brewery like Drunkendog or Falling Piano Brewery Co. Or just try Cerveceria del Barrio.

Nightlife in Roma Norte

Roma is the best neighborhood for nightlife in Mexico City. Head to Patrick Miller for a club on a Friday hidden behind a black gate, or Mama Rumba for some salsa dancing. They have dance classes early in the night with live music. I loved dancing here.

Or go to bars like Gin Gin, Tlecan or the famous Licoreria Limantour.

Where to Eat in Roma and Condesa

Ciena (Alfonso Reyes 101, Condesa) fusion restaurant, $$
Emma (Jalapa 204A, Roma Norte) delicious brunch/breakfast $$
Plantasia (Puebla 120, Roma Norte) vegan Asian food $
Mog Bistro (Frontera 168, Roma Norte) Japanese restaurant, good sushi for the price and the ramen is delicious, too $$
Contramar (Durango 200, Roma Norte) seafood restaurant, try the pie de higos $$$
Maximo (Alvaro Obregon 65 Bis, Roma Norte) they have both omakase and a-la-carte options $$$$
Em (Tonalá 133, Roma Norte) tasting menu is $3,800 mxn per person $$$$

Coyoacán

Coyoacan is best known for its cobbled streets, famous market, and even more famous blue house, Frida’s House. It feels like you’re in a completely different city, with life feeling a little less chaotic and more peaceful.

Things to do in Coyoacan

Museo Frida Kahlo

La Casa Azul, Frida’s family home in Coyoacán, is where she was born and died. It, is of course, one of the most popular museums of one of the most popular artists in Mexican history. For a long time I believed she was overrated, until I finally got to study—ironically in a US college— Frida’s life, suffering and relationship with Diego. This gave me a glimpse into her work and its meaning and I became a fan. It is incredible how a lot of Diego’s initial fame could be attributed to Frida, and while he was more famous by the end of their lives, I think she remains an emblem of female art, feminism, and Mexican art worldwide.

It is open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesdays and Thursday through Sunday, and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Wednesday. Entrance costs $320 MXN (~$16 USD). Mexicans get a discount. Book your tickets in advance as they tend to sell out!

Mercado Coyoacán

Head to this market to have some delicious Mexican food and antojitos, like quesadillas, tlacoyos, pozole, birria, barbacoa, and so much more. Wander around its aisles for textiles, woven goods, spices, fruit, and vegetables. I will not add an where to eat section for Coyoacan as you have to go have some food at the mercado!

San Juan Bautista Church

An enormous baroque church in the central square of Coyoacán. It was one of the first churches in the Americas.

Parque Centenario and Jardín Hidalgo

Relax at the park and have a bite with a view at one of their restaurants.

Museo Anahuacalli

Another museum in my off-the beaten path post, the Anahuacalli Museum was designed and built by Diego Rivera in 1941. It holds 2,000 pieces of indigenous artifacts from his private collection. Open Tuesday-Sunday from 11am to 5:30pm. Take a tour of the museum to get a better understanding of each artifact.

UNAM Murals

The National Autonomous University of Mexico is home to amazing murals such as the mural of the Central Library by Juan O’Gorman opened in 1956. The university also houses murals by David Alfaro Siqueiros in the Rectoría, Diego Rivera in the Estadio Olímpico, José Chávez Morado’s glass mosaic of Quetzalcóatl’s return in the Architecture Faculty’s “Luis Unkel” Library, and the vinyl mural and glass mosaics in the auditorium Alfonso Caso in the Facultad de Ciencias. To see other off the beaten path art check out this post.

Do a guided tour of UNAM murals so you don’t miss any of the historical, architectural, and artistic details!

Santa Fe

Santa Fe is not one of my favorite areas as it is too crowded, with little infrastructure, and too sheltered. A lot of the rich Mexicans live in this area, and so some of the most expensive private universities are here, like Ibero and Tec. Big companies like Microsoft have their Mexican headquarters here. It has a lot of amazing restaurants, fancy hotels, business offices, and malls.

One thing I love in Santa Fe is Parque la Mexicana where you can walk, shop, eat, and it even has a pet-store. It is a great pet-friendly and family friendly place to spend a day.

KidZania is a great thing to do with kids in Mexico City. It is an interactive city where kids can learn about different professions, earn money, create things, make their own pizza, sushi, and gansitos, even an indoor climbing wall. The fourth Friday of the month from 8:30pm to 12:30am it is open to adults! We went there for my friend’s 25th birthday and had a ton of fun acting like little kids.

Other things to do in Cdmx

Off the beaten path Museums and Architecture Gems

For less known, hidden architecture gems, and less touristy museums, check out this post. You will find great galleries and museums, architectural hidden gems, and where to find experimental and contemporary Mexican art.

Trajineras in Xochimilco

The trajineras in Xochimilco might sound like a tourist trap, but Mexicans also treat ourselves to floating along the canals, drinking on the trajineras, and getting serenaded by mariachis who board your boat. You can rent one for a couple of hours, and, don’t stress, there are pay bathrooms along the canals. Don’t miss a visit to the Isla de las Muñecas.

Take an Uber or a taxi, do not try to take public transport as it is not a very safe area or drive— as you may drink a ton while on the

Try going on a tour to get a full experience: this one focused more on culture or this one for a trajinera boat party in Xochimilco!

Teotihuacan

I don’t even know how many times I’ve been to Teotihuacan, whenever a foreign friend or family member visited, for school trips, or just for a fun family weekend. I love walking along Calzada de los Muertos, close my eyes and imagine what this city that once held 200,000 people of different ethnicities was like. The buzz of people moving around, different languages, food, smells, I imagine the colors.

Not much is known about the Teotihuacan people, only what little was left behind after their demise around 600 A.D.— about the same time the Mayans disappeared as well. I recently did a hot air balloon ride over Teotihuacan and it was fabulous. My day-trips from Mexico City post has more information on Teotihuacan.

For a day trip from Mexico City to Teotihuacan try a small group tour or a private tour with transport. Or even better, do a hot air balloon ride over Teotihuacan.

Take a day trip from Mexico City

Mexico City is very close to so many great cities and places for an escape of the busy metropolis.

Mexico City is full of amazing museums, art galleries, archeological sites, and is truly a foodies dream. I hope this local’s guide to Mexico City helps you plan the perfect trip to one of my favorite cities in the world.

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