Ultimate Mexico City Travel Guide for Best things to do

I grew up in Cuernavaca where the chilangos (people from Mexico City) would spend their weekends. I would go to Mexico City regularly mostly for doctor’s appointments or to see some of the best things to do in Mexico City. Getting to know the city really made me fall in love with it, its architecture, its museums, its culture, and people. Here I present the ultimate travel guide to Mexico City!

With more than 150 museums, pyramids, neighborhoods, foods you must try, history and its proximity to other cities for amazing day trips, Mexico City is one of the best places to vacation in Mexico!

If you are planning a trip to Mexico soon after quarantine ends, this guide will show you all the things to do in Mexico City that I think are a MUST! And if you need a little help with words like wey or que onda, this Mexican slang guide will help!

The guide is divided into neighborhoods and the activities to do in each one. If you need things to do in Mexico City near the airport for a layover, check out Centro Historico and the Basilica de Guadalupe sections. Just remember that Mexico City has a lot of traffic, so plan at least an hour (maybe even an hour and a half) to get to places.

I will be checking back and updating as Mexico comes out of quarantine to update the list on restaurants and museums– hopefully none of my favorites has to close down- and bars. Most museums are closed during quarantine but will reopen back soon.

Mexico City a Little History

It is incredible to think that beneath the asphalt and the sky scrappers there once stood a lake. Downtown Mexico City was built on an island where, according to legend, the nomadic people of Aztlan found their promised land where an eagle was devouring a snake on top of a prickly pear. This is the Mexican symbol and our flag!

The name “Aztecs” is erroneously attributed to the Mexica tribe, since they came from Aztlan to Lake Texcoco in the early 14th century. Their capital city of Tenochtitlan became one of the biggest cities in the world with a population of perhaps 200,000 Mexicas living among these natural and artificial islands. This was far bigger than any city in Spain at the time. The whole Valle de Mexico held perhaps 1.5million people with the lakeshore states that had once underestimated the Aztec deserters.

The Mexicas were fierce warriors, violent, and without mercy, but they were also incredibly smart and technologically advanced as they built a planned city with a hydraulic system, canals, and chinampas— raised gardens on the lake to supplement their food sources which you can still see in Xochimilco.

They would ask for tribute in the form of goods such jade, turquoise, cotton, vegetables, and cacao. Their roads reached all the way to the sea with runners doing relays to bring fresh fish for the elites. In the mid 15th century, the Mexicas allied with Texcoco and Tlacopan, lakeshore free states, to conduct wars against Tlaxcala. The Mexicas needed a steady supply of prisoners for human sacrifices to their main god Huitzilopochtli, the god of war. The god of water, Tlaloc, also had a sanctuary framing the Templo Mayor.

Spanish Conquest

The Spaniards arrived in 1519 and conquered the city by 1521 with the help of the Tlaxcalans, who the Mexica had terrorized for centuries, and a smallpox epidemic that decimated the population of Mexico. The beliefs of the Mexicas also contributed to the fall of their empire. Their ruler, Moctezuma, believed that Cortes was the reincarnation of their god Quetzalcoatl, and so the Spanish were welcomed into Tenochtitlan like gods, showered with gifts, and food.

“We could not walk without treading on the bodies and heads of dead Indians.  I have read about the destruction of Jerusalem, but I do not think the mortality was greater there than here in Mexico. Indeed, the stench was so bad that no one could endure it…and even Cortés was ill from the odours which assailed his nostrils.”

Bernal Diaz, on the conquest of Mexico

Not only did the Spanish, unwittingly, decimated the population of Mexico, but they also imposed their own religion, destroying temples, statues, and the will of the people. The Spanish attempted to convert the Mexicans to catholicism by building new temples on top of the old ones. This can be seen downtown Mexico City, where the Cathedral is built on top of the Great Temple of Tenochtitlan.

While the Spanish prospered, the indigenous people of New Spain suffered. Their population decimated due to different epidemics like smallpox and measles, as well as their horrible treatment as slaves. Some clergy men interceded for them and got them basic human rights. During the Inquisition natives were given special allowances because they were barbaric and children-like, just learning what it meant to be Catholic.

300 years after the conquest of Mexico, Mexico gained its independence from Spain. The fight for independence started on the night of September 15, 1810, but ended in 1821. Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla and other Mexican elites started the fight for independence because were in discontent with Spain– even Spanish born in Mexico, criollos, were regarded as inferior to Spanish born in Spain, peninsulares.

Then from 1877 to 1910 Mexico entered the modern age with the Porfiriato, or the dictatorship of Porfirio Diaz. During this time the railway system, the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Reforma Avenue, and so many more were built. Mexico grew wealthy but this wealth became concentrated in only a small minority; this combined with political repression, bad working conditions, foreign ownership (yet again) of Mexican resources led to the Mexican Revolution in 1910.

Some of the most celebrated heroes of Mexico, like Zapata, are from the tumultuous period after “La Revolucion,” as well as its artists like Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Alfaro Siqueiros, Rufino Tamayo, and Remedios Varo, whose art you can see in some of our museums and murals in historical buildings, like the Palacio Nacional. Today, Mexico City is one of the biggest cities in the world, with its metropolitan area having more than 22million inhabitants.

In 1968, Mexico held the summer Olympics which led to one of the defining events of modern history, the Tlatelolco Massacre. Joining student protests around the world, about 200 Mexican students protested the government in the Plaza de las Tres Culturas ten days before the Mexico Olympics. These protestors were killed by the government fearing the Olympic Games were in jeopardy.

This great history led to modern Mexico today, with its mestizaje (mix of indigenous and European ancestry), corruption (widely used during colonial times), inequalities and discrimination (where the color of the skin mattered more than anything), but it has also led to the proliferation of the Mexican attitude of welcoming people even to their homes, their friendliness, and their incredible sense of humor. We use humor to deal with war, catastrophes, and even death! So if you get teased (with love of course) by Mexicans, consider that you’ve made friends!

How to Get Around Mexico City

In order to get around Mexico City I would recommend Uber as they’re really cheap, and more secure than getting a taxi off the street. The most I’ve paid for an Uber was $15 USD and that was because I went from Polanco to Perisur (all the way to the south) and got into a ton of traffic. Other than that, you will be paying between $2 and $8 USD.

Some of these areas are super close to each other, for example: you can easily walk from Polanco to Cuauhtemoc and Juarez– these last two only divided by Paseo de la Reforma. Then from Juarez you are practically in Roma Norte. Be aware to not walk further east of Juarez or Roma as you may find yourself in La Doctores, a notoriously dangerous area of Mexico City.

You can also use public transportation. The new Metro Bus line 7 that goes all the way on Paseo de la Reforma to the Basilica de Guadalupe and back is very nice, with more modern buses. It is fast as it has its own lane and cheap. Or the Metro Bus Line 1 on Insurgentes that takes you all the way to Ciudad Universitaria. Other than that, I would not recommend using the subway as if you get lost, you can end up in parts of the city that are not very safe. Also be aware that the Mexican public transportation schedule runs from 5am to midnight on weekdays, 6:00-24:00 on Saturdays and 7:00-24:00 on Sundays and holidays (you can bring your bike these days). It costs $5 pesos to get on ($0.25 USD!), very cheap.

One of my favorite things I did recently was taking the tour bus in Mexico City with my friends. We were pretending to be tourists and had such a fun day. The Turibus goes to all the main stops that are in this guide with three main circuits I recommend: Downtown Tour, Southside Tour (connected to Downtown on Cibeles stop and takes you to Museo Frida Kahlo and UNAM) and the Basilica (which includes Plaza Garibaldi and the Basilica, connected via the Zocalo stop). Just try to not stand up as my friends and I found out the hard way it is not safe. My friend Cris took a hard slap in the face from an electric line covered in rubber. The good thing was that she wasn’t hurt, and we had a laugh about the dark line covering her face.

All over Polanco, Condesa and Roma you find the ecobicis, bicycles you can rent and use to move around these areas. They’re an amazing way to see the city, but be careful as Mexico City is not very bike friendly. Take advantage of Sunday’s ciclopista, when Reforma is transformed into a pedestrian area and you can bike, walk, or skate to your heart’s desire.

Mexico City Best Tips

Mexico uses the Mexican Peso as its coin, the conversion is roughly $20 pesos per US dollar or about $24 pesos per Euro.

Most museums are closed on Mondays and are free on Sundays for Mexican citizens and residents. Plan other things for those days, like a Sunday stroll through Paseo de la Reforma.

I would recommend staying in Condesa, Polanco, or La Zona Rosa (Mexico’s gay district) as they are very well located to see the rest of the city, for nightlife, and eating!

Do not drink tap water, it is not drinkable. Restaurants will freely give you glasses of water, but to be safe always buy a bottle.

If you are not used to Mexican food, especially street food, to avoid getting sick eat from bigger restaurants, avoid ice, and uncooked vegetables as they may have been washed with tap water.

Do not take street taxis only Taxi de Sitio (from a legitimate company you call) or an Uber.

If you don’t know the area and are prone to getting lost, take an Uber places instead of walking or public transport. Mexico is a weird place where the nice areas are surrounded by some gritty neighborhoods. Sometimes only a fence separates these.

There’s a lot of inequality and people in the informal economy– ie. don’t pay taxes, street vendors, street performers. You will get approached by kids asking for money, selling candy or gum. You cannot help all of them. Just say “No, gracias”, and turn away. Sometimes I even just say “Gracias”, and smile, they understand it’s a no. Mexicans are polite even when saying no.

Mexican criminals tend to leave tourists alone and target mostly other Mexicans, but always be aware of your surroundings. Pickpockets are common in big cities.

As a woman, Mexico is not considered safe for you to be traveling alone in more revealing clothing. Opt for jeans and t-shirts, especially if you’re walking. You will get stared at, especially downtown, but people are mostly harmless. The subway has special women only carts that you can ride (they are pink so easy to spot) to avoid groping- which happens often- and harassment.

If a Mexican says the food is not spicy, do not believe them. Our taste buds have been slowly killed by the capsaicin in chili and we can’t really tell someone who is not used to spicy food what is and isn’t spicy. Do believe them if they say something is spicy!

Neighborhoods to avoid in Mexico City

Like any big metropolitan city, you need to be careful in Mexico City. There are areas you should definitely avoid like Tepito, Doctores, Narvarte, Ecatepec (Mexico State), Martin Carrera, Gabriel Hernandez. Be aware that some of these areas are super close to tourist areas. For example: Doctores and Roma are separated by only one street so you can easily find yourself in an unsafe situation. This is the same case with Tepito and Centro Historico. Even if you are told that the market in Tepito is fun, please don’t venture forth, unless you have a reliable Mexican guide with you. In Tepito is where they resell stolen things like car tires.

Also practice caution in general. Do not leave your hotel or where you are staying with valuables. Don’t wear the nice Rolex or flashy jewelry. You don’t want to seem like a target so don’t let them see you are one.

What to eat in Mexico City

If you are wondering the foods you can’t miss in Mexico City try our antojitos or the Mexican equivalent of snacks. These consist of esquites, tlacoyos, sopes, quesadillas, birria, pozole, tacos, and so much more.

This Mexico City travel guide includes restaurants and some foods at each restaurant I think you should try. They are divided by neighborhoods to make it easier, so if hunger strikes when visiting the Zocalo, you know where to eat!

Be adventurous and try some escamoles (ant eggs) or have some chocolate from where it was then introduced to the world!

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Read More: Foods You Need To Try in Mexico City

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When to Visit Mexico City

Mexico City is in a valley, allowing for very nice weather year round. Average temperatures year round in Mexico City are in the 20’s celsius (70’sF). We get mild winters with lowest temperature at around 5C, and very rarely temperatures of 35C in the summer.

March-May

The best time to visit Mexico City is during the early spring. In March and April the city turns purple with the jacaranda tree in full bloom. I visited Japan during cherry blossom season and it was one of the best experiences to see the pink clouds around the city. When I came back to Mexico, I realized we have the same attraction during the spring. We do have a saying that says Febrero loco, marzo otro poco. This means that February has crazy weather and March has a bit of this craziness, too. It could rain, or not, but don’t let that deter you from visiting in the best month!

During Easter Holidays (Holy Week and Easter Week) locals exit the city and enjoy time off. It may be a great time to visit Mexico City as it tends to be less busy and less traffic.

September-November

Another great time to visit is during October to be able to catch glimpses of the city turning orange with the cempasuchil flower decorating the streets, doors, and even churches preparing for the Day of the Dead. It is one of my favorite times of years, with all the colors, the culture, the milder weather with some chill at night. There normally is no rain during the day so you can enjoy the city.

September is the Mes Patrio or the month of Mexico, with our Independence Day on the 15-16. If you want to party like there’s no tomorrow and see our grito de Independencia, then September is your month. It is still raining a bit, so be conscious of this.

December-February

December to February has better hotel deals as most people leave Mexico City for the beach during these months. Its high altitude makes for chilly weather compared to other parts, but the average lowest temperature is 5° celsius (40F) at night. During the day you can enjoy temperatures between 18-24° celsius (low 70F). During the winter is the dry season as well, so less chance of rain. During this time there are some festivities like the Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe (December 12), Posadas (Mid-Dec to the 24), Día de los Reyes (January 6), and Día de la Constitución (February 5).

If you love food this is the best time to visit Mexico City! The Guadalupe-Reyes marathon – the period from December 12 to January 6 – is filled with parties, family dinners, friend dinners, job parties, posadas, and more that are filled with lots of drinking and eating. Have some ponche, champurrado, tamales, bacalao, and so much more with your favorite tequila or mezcal!

June-August

Summer is the rainy season, but it mostly only rains at night giving you time to explore during the day. The rainy season ends in September. Mexico rains are not just drizzles that may annoy you, we get downpours with amazing lightning shows. I miss the smell of wet dirt right when it starts to rain and the angry wind rustling the leaves during a storm. Stay in Tepoztlan, a Magical City close to Mexico City, and watch one of these storms as they hit the Tepozteco.

Things to do in Centro Histórico

Walk through downtown Mexico City

Downtown Mexico City was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so don’t hesitate to wander its streets. Walk to the west of the Zocalo towards Correo Mayor, the old building of the Mexican postal service. It is beautiful to see! Walk through the streets of 5 de Mayo where you can see the Casa de los Azulejos, an 18th century beautiful blue palace today home to Sanborns, a famous Mexican department store chain. Francisco I. Madero street is a pedestrian street where you can walk.

I would not recommend venturing far north of the Zocalo as you can start going into a dangerous area of the city. I would walk further south towards the Palacio de Bellas Artes. And always be aware of your surroundings and of pickpockets.

Zocalo or the “Plaza de la constitucion”

Mexico City’s main plaza is always so full of life. In winter the outdoor skating rink and Christmas tree adorn its plaza, or sometimes world class exhibitions like the replica of the Sistine Chapel. Here in the zocalo you will find the Catedral Metropolitana, Templo Mayor, and Palacio Nacional.

Catedral Metropolitana

The main cathedral and the seat of the Archdiocese of Mexico is right in the middle of downtown Mexico City. It was built on top of the main temple of Tenochtitlan between 1573 and 1813. Due to the long time it took to build, there are many architectural styles like Gothic, Baroque, Churrigueresque, and Neoclassical.

Templo Mayor

Or the Great Temple was the main sacred site of the Mexica people. It is an incredible archeological site to visit and see what the pyramids of Mexico were like. There are multiple scale models of the city, as well as artifacts that are great to see and imagine the life of the Mexicas before the Spanish. One of the most impressive things for me is the Wall of Skulls, where stone skulls represent the hundreds of human sacrifices performed by the Mexicas (sometimes erroneously referred to as Aztecs). There have been other skull walls that had real skulls. One skull wall is estimated to have been nearly 200 feet long and 100 feet wide at its peak.

You can see some of the Templo Mayor without paying entrance to the museum, but I do recommend visiting the Museo del Templo Mayor on Tuesdays-Sundays from 9am to 5pm for $80 pesos ($4 US).

Palacio Nacional

You can visit the seat of the federal branch of the Mexican government and see the amazing Diego Rivera murals that adorn the main stairwell and walls on the second floor. These murals depict the history of Mexico, from the pre-Hispanic cultures to the Revolution, tying Mexico’s origins to the Mexicas that until then had been discouraged. Open from 9am to 5pm.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

It is a beautiful theatre that has hosted some of the most prominent cultural events in Mexico. The facade mostly Art Nouveau stands out at the end of the Alameda Central, with a beautiful front plaza where you can admire its architecture. The interior is primarily Art Deco and best known for housing murals by Diego Rivera, Siqueiros and other Mexican muralists. To gain access to the murals you need to pay an entrance fee, for me it was worth it as one of my favorite murals, Man Controller of the Universe, is found here.

It is also the home of the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico which, if you have the time, you need to go see. This is an amazing display of traditional Mexican folk dance, with incredible costumes, lively music, and tons of history.

The Museum of Palacio de Bellas Artes is open Tuesday-Sunday from 10am to 5pm.

Torre Latinoamericana

This Mexico City landmark has survived two major earthquakes and used to be the tallest building in Mexico. It is an incredible feat in engineering as it was the first successfully built skyscraper on a highly active seismic zone. It has a great lookout at the top that you can visit and see the city. There is also a restaurant at the top, but I’ve never tried it, so I would just recommend the observation deck. A great place to view the whole city!

The Mirador Latino is open everyday from 9am to 10pm with a ticket cost of $130 pesos ($6.5 US) for unlimited access.

Museo de Arte Popular (MAP)

This is one of my favorite museums in Mexico City, and even the world! It is so colorful and fun. The MAP promotes and preserves Mexican handcrafts and folk art, with exhibits of textiles, pottery, piñatas, alebrijes, masks, and much more. One of my favorite exhibits are the tree of life, ranging from small trees to bigger trees, but each one colorful and gorgeous.

Sometimes they hold workshops for children, but even if they don’t it is a great museum to visit in Mexico City with kids!

The Museo de Arte Popular is open Tuesdays and Thursdays-Sundays from 10am to 6pm and Wednesdays from 10am to 9pm and costs $80 pesos ($4 US).

Seriously, you cannot miss this museum when you visit Mexico City. The gift shop has great folk art you can buy as souvenirs!

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Plaza Garibaldi

If you want to check out some mariachis and the Museum of Tequila and Mezcal head over to Plaza Garibaldi. Check out Salon Tenampa to eat some antojitos while you drink tequila listening to mariachi music at night.

Note: the surrounding area of Plaza Garibaldi is not that safe, so going to and from it, please order an Uber, especially at night.

Where to Eat – Downtown

If you want to have some lunch or cocktails overlooking this amazing Zocalo, go to the Gran Hotel restaurant (16 de Septiembre #82) that has a great terrace, or check out el Balcon del Zocalo (5 de Mayo #61). For more traditional Mexican food that is delicious try Limosneros (Ignacio Allende #3) where you can try some escamoles, tortilla soup, hibiscus taquitos, or cuitlacoche tacos. Don’t forget to ask for the salsa de molcajete. There is also El Cardenal (Juárez 70) with amazing nata and breakfast options.

Another restaurant option that is less touristy and very local is Los Especiales on Francisco I. Madero Street where you can have some amazing tacos de canasta.

How to Get To Downtown

I recommend using Uber or if you’re driving, the Palacio de Bellas Artes has a very comfortable and safe public parking lot that you reach driving down Avenida Juarez (all the way on the left).

You can also get here on the subway Line 2 (blue line) exits Zocalo, Bellas Artes or Hidalgo- this last one exits on the beginning of the Alameda Central, from where you can walk to Bellas Artes through this beautiful park then down to the Zocalo.

Things to do in La Villa

Basilica de Guadalupe

There is a saying in Mexico that even atheists are Guadalupanos. This is because there are more worshipers of the Virgin of Guadalupe than there are practicing and registered Catholics. The most important Catholic pilgrimage is to the Basilica de Guadalupe. It is visited by several million people every year and for December 12, Our Lady of Guadalupe’s Feast day. In 2017, more than 20 million people visited the sanctuary, of which 7.2 million were in the days leading up to December 12.

Even if you are not Catholic, a visit to the Basilica of Guadalupe is a must to understand Mexican culture and devotion to La Morena.

Some controversy surrounding the Virgin is that it was brought to Mexico from Spain or that it was an adapted goddess of the indigenous people as early depictions of Tonantzin, an important mother goddess of the Mexicas, or of Cuatlicue (goddess of fertility), and the Tepeyac Hill was thought to have been a sacred site of worship for this pre-Catholicism goddess.

The Basilica is composed of two main buildings, the old Basilica and the modern Basilica. The whole site is known popularly as La Villa. You can go up the hill where there is a small chapel at the top, visit a beautiful fountain with the depiction of Juan Diego’s miracle, the old Basilica, and the new Basilica which houses the original tilma. I honestly could not go into the old church as the energy inside it made me so dizzy I could not take a second step inside. Also, the old church is sinking and it tilts down from the altar to the entrance. The new one is a bigger, more modern building with a moving walkway allows you to view the tilma without people hogging the center. There are multiple songs in honor of the Virgen of Guadalupe, my favorite being La Guadalupana.

La Morenita occupies a very important space in Mexican history and our hearts. It was the culmination of the efforts to bring the Mexican people to the Catholic Church. On December 9th, 1531, Juan Diego saw the apparition of a beautiful dark skinned lady that identified herself as the Virgin Mary, “mother of the very true deity”. She asked to have a church built at that site in her honor. Juan Diego went to the archbishop to tell him what happened, but the archbishop did not believe him, and after insistence, told Juan Diego to ask this lady for a miraculous sign.

On December 12, the Virgin appeared for the fourth time and told Juan Diego to gather flowers from the top of Tepeyac Hill, which was normally barren. He found some roses, not native to Mexico, which the Virgin arranged on his tilma, or cloak, and told him to only open it before the archbishop. When the flowers fell to the floor, on the fabric was the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe.

This tilma and image of the Virgin has become Mexico’s most popular religious and cultural symbol. It is one of the only darker skinned Virgins in the world, which legitimized Mexicans own indigenous origins. The image of the Virgin of Guadalupe also became the rallying call for the Independence of Mexico.

Nevertheless, the cloak has been studied extensively and has been full of mysteries and controversies. Some fun beliefs about the cloak: it has never been varnished even though it is made of hemp, in 1929 a photographer discovered there was a man reflected in her eyes, she survived a bomb untouched in 1921 and no known artistic technique rendered the image of the Virgen Morena, there is a perfect celestial map hidden on her robe, and more unbelievable beliefs such as that it presents two heart beats- the Virgin’s and baby.

Where to Eat- La Villa

Try Tacos Susy ( Av Ricarte 480 bis) for some tacos al pastor, nopales con queso, or tacos de bistec. Or go have some delicious pozole at Pozoleria Jalisco (Avenida la Fortuna 100)- one of my favorite places, their tostadas are amazing! There are so many other little places to eat around this area for quesadillas and birria, but don’t venture forth too far. It is not one of the safest areas in Mexico City, but I’ve also never had a bad experience, so just stick to Calzada de los Misterios or Calzada de Guadalupe.

How to get there- basilica

Take un Uber that will get you to the Basilica itself, or as close as possible.

If not take the Metro Bus on Paseo de la Reforma (MB7). There are many stops along Reforma and it will leave you right at the Villa on Calzada de Guadalupe. For the way back, take the bus on Misterios. Paseo de la Reforma turns into both of these streets, Misterios and Calzada de Guadalupe, as they are one way streets. Walk down Calzada de Guadalupe, and imagine yourself on a pilgrimage to see the Virgin.

You can also arrive on the subway. Line 6 (Red Line) has a stop on La Villa-Basilica. Make sure you don’t miss this stop and exit in a sketchy part of town.

Things to do in Cuauhtémoc

Angel de la Independencia

The Angel or Monumento a la Independencia is in fact not an angel, but a statue of Nike, the Greek goddess of Victory. It was built in 1910 to commemorate the centennial of Mexico’s Independence. The Angel is made of bronze and covered in gold, holding a laurel crown in her right hand symbolically above Miguel Hidalgo’s head and the nation below symbolizing Victory and in her left she holds a broken chain, symbolizing Freedom.

The base of the column has sculptures symbolizing law, war, justice, and peace. The main face of the base has an inscription- La Nación a los Héroes de la Independencia (“The Nation to the Heroes of Independence”)- in front of it is a bronze statue of a giant, laureled lion that guides a child. Next to the column are marble stature with some of the heroes of the War of Independence. The column itself is 36 meters high with a staircase inside that leads to a viewpoint.

In 1925, it became a mausoleum, with the remains of several Independence heroes interred inside. Some of those buried in El Angel are Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, Jose Maria Morelos y Pavon, Ignacio Allende, and Vicente Guerrero.

You can go up to the viewpoint by visiting the office of the Patrimonio Cultural de la Delegacion Cuahtemoc. Here you fill an application, hand in a copy of official ID and wait a couple of minutes. The visit cannot last more than 15 minutes, cannot be in a group larger than six people, and has to be in the hours of 10:00 to 17:00.

It is such an iconic part of Mexico City, Mexican culture, and celebration. If Mexico wins a soccer game people come and celebrate at the Angel. If there is a demonstration that needs national attention, then the Angel is where to go. The recent controversial Women’s March in Mexico City, a protest against violence against women, ended with the vandalization of the Angel. A symbolic gesture of desecrating national symbols of peace, union, and Independence, when women do not have that in Mexico.

Monumento a la Revolución

This monument commemorating the Mexican Revolution is the tallest triumphal arch in the world. At 222 ft or 68 meters, it is a monumental structure that combines Art Deco and Mexican socialist realism styles.

So many people walk past it every day as it is in the Plaza de la Republica, between two of the main streets of Mexico City, Paseo de la Reforma and Avenida Insurgentes. But not a lot of people know these interesting facts about it: it is a mausoleum for some of the most famous revolutionary figures of Mexico like Francisco I. Madero and Francisco “Pancho” Villa, their remains contained inside the bases of the four main pillars.

It also has a vertigo inducing glass elevator that runs through the center and takes you to the observation deck in its cupola. The monument was originally built as the Federal Legislative Palace under Porfirio Diaz, but as the Mexican Revolution broke out, it was left bare for 28 years. There is a section where you can still see the bare bones of this monument and how it was converted in 1938 by Carlos Obregon Santacilla into this beautiful triumphal arch. Below the monument, there is an exhibition space, art gallery, and the National Museum of the Revolution!

It is open Monday-Thursday from 12-8pm; Friday and Saturday from 12-10pm. Complete access tickets cost M$90 (about $5 US).

Things to do in Juarez or Zona Rosa

Some years ago this area was not considered safe or nice, but in the past 20 years there’s been a recent boom and appreciation for its subculture. The LGBTQ capital of Mexico City has a great number of gar bars and clubs, sex shops, and for the drag queens fans, some of the best imitators are found here every night!

The area is located between Reforma and Insurgentes, from the Glorieta de los Insurgentes to the Angel de la Independencia and Glorieta de la Palma.

Where to Eat

One of my favorite things about Mexico City is that it has so many amazing restaurants, not only of Mexican food but any type of food you can imagine. Some of my favorite restaurants in the city are actually Japanese. One of them is here in Cuahtemoc, Rokai Ramen-Ya (Rio Ebro 89), an amazing small place with delicious food, superb ingredients, and slurp worthy ramen.

For churros, go to Churreria El Moro (Rio Lerma 167).

How to get to Cuauhtémoc

To get to the Angel and Monumento a la Revolucion I would recommend to walk along Paseo de la Reforma. Once you pass the Angel, keep going until you reach Monumento a Colon (Christopher Columbus monumento) and walk up through Ignacio Ramires to Plaza de la Republica. Walking is always the best way to see the city!

If instead you want public transportation:

To get to the Monumento a la Revolucion, take Linea 2 (blue) and exit on Estacion Revolucion. From there, walk down Jose Maria Iglesias or Ponciano Arriaga towards Plaza de la Republica.

To get to the Angel, take Linea 1 (pink) and exit on Insurgentes and walk up Florencia towards Reforma. You can also take the MetroBus Line 7. For the Zona Rosa, from Insurgentes walk up to Reforma and to the east.

Things to do in Polanco

To be honest, Polanco is one of my favorite areas. I think it is one of the safest neighborhoods in Mexico City, and it has so many things to do, eat, and enjoy. It is also one of the most affluent so you do find prices a bit steeper in this area than in others of the city. There is so much to do, eat, and enjoy in Polanco, I will just give you here my top things you can’t miss when visiting Mexico City.

Walk or Bike along Reforma

Rent a bike or walk along Reforma. This is the Mexican version of Champs–Élysées in Paris. This main avenue, lined with trees, starts at the Bosque de Chapultepec and ends at the Basilica de Guadalupe. It dissects Mexico’s City poniente and north. I would not advise going all the way to the Basilica as you do go through some rough neighborhoods like Tepito. It is safe to walk all the way to Avenida Insurgentes, even at night as it is beautifully lit.

I love Reforma. Multiple art exhibits throughout the year are held in its sidewalks, one of my favorite is the alebrijes exhibit and competition held every year around Day of the Day (starting mid-October) These exhibits are found between the Diana Cazadora and Angel de la Independencia.

On Sundays, the street is closed to traffic and pedestrians, bikers, and skaters flock to the street. It is a great thing to do as a family on Sundays from 8am to 2pm. So walk along this incredible street and visit the city by foot, or rent one of the red bikes around the city and have fun!

Museo Nacional de Antropologia e Historia

It is the most visited museum in Mexico for multiple reasons: it contains the largest collection of ancient Mexican art, the Sun Stone or Aztec Calendar, and the museum itself is a grandiose art exhibit in itself-I love spending time in its courtyard.

The best place to start is in Introduccion a la Antropologia, and go counterclockwise from there. If you don’t have much time, go straight to Teotihuacan and move counterclockwise from there to to Toltecs on. Some of the highlights are one of the four basalt warrior columns from Tula’s Temple of Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli, a jade mask of the Zapotec Bat god or the 20 tonne Olmec head carvings in Oaxaca room, the recreation of Pakal’s tomb in the Maya room, the Sun Stone in the Mexica (Aztec) exhibit, and the amazing umbrella roof in the courtyard.

The upper level contains ethnographic exhibits on present-day indigenous groups in Mexico. It is very interesting to see how these cultures continued developing and are still present today, conserving their traditions- mixed a bit with catholicism and Spanish culture- and language.

The museum is in an extension of the Bosque de Chapultepec, it is surrounded by forest. Check out the clearing in front of the museum where there is a tall post, right in the middle. Here the voladores de Papantla “fly” from a post in a dance dating back to before the conquest. Five voladores go up a 20 meter pole, four of them fall backwards spinning around the pole until they reach the bottom, 13 rotations each for a total of 52 (the Mexica century), while the fifth volador stays on top of the pole singing, beating a drum or playing a flute. I remember watching them when I was little and gasping as they fall backwards, trusting gravity and the rope that ties them. Don’t miss this incredible Mexican traditional dance on days the Museum is open, from Tuesdays-Sundays from 11am-6pm with shows every 30 minutes for tips.

The Anthropology Museum is open Tuesday-Sunday from 9am to 7pm and the entrance is $80 pesos ($4 US). I would avoid going on Sundays as it is free for Mexicans citizens and residents.


My recommendation is to see this museum before heading to Teotihuacan, so you can get more of an idea on Mexican culture and history. Take advantage of the free one-hour guided tours (four daily, except on Sunday from 10:30am to 5pm) in English or venture forth yourself- there are many explanations translated into English, so don’t fear not understanding.

Bosque de Chapultepec

The Central Park of Mexico City, at more than 1,700 acres it is double its size. Chapultepec Park is home to museums, botanical gardens, a zoo, a lake, and restaurants. It has some of the best museums in Mexico City like Museo Nacional de Antropologia, Castillo de Chapultepec, Museo Tamayo, and Museo de Arte Moderna.

Walk around the park, maybe take a leisurely stroll or head to the big lake and rent a swan-shaped pedalo boat- don’t get in the water! You can also go to the zoo (it is free open Tuesdays-Sundays from 9am to 430pm)- even if you hate caged animals like I do, it has a great butterfly sanctuary, mariposario, inside for a cheap ticket of $60 pesos ($3 US).

There are many entertainers and street vendors around the park. Have a fruit cup, mango on a stick with chili and lime, or some esquites– all very healthy options and delicious! For a coffee break go to Libreria Porrua, a Mexican bookstore with a great cafe overlooking the lake.

Castillo de Chapultepec

It used to be an actual castle, the only real one America. It was the home of the Spanish viceroys and the Emperor Maximiliano of Habsburg, later becoming the Presidential House until 1940.

Today, it is home to the Museo Nacional de Historia, the keeper of Mexican history with a collection of paintings, photographs, documents and objects of Mexican history. The building itself is part of Mexican history with so many important historical events taking place here like the occupation of the United States during the Mexico-US War (1846-1848).

The National History Museum is open Tuesdays-Sundays from 9am to 5pm and costs $80 pesos ($4 US). Again this museum is free on Sundays for Mexican citizens and residents.

Museo de Arte Moderno

Another one of the museums inside the Bosque de Chapultepec, it exhibits work by famous 20th century and contemporary artists like Dr Atl, Diego Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco, Tamayo, O’Gorman, Leonora Carrington, and Frida Kahlo.

Frida Kahlo’s Las dos Fridas has a home in this museum. It is also the home of temporary art exhibits.

The Museo de Arte Moderno is open Tuesdays-Sundays from 10:15am to 5:30pm with ticket costing $70 MN ($3.5 US).

Tamayo Museum

This museum houses some works of famous Mexican artist, Rufino Tamayo, as well as other contemporary artists. It is a small museum worth visiting during its special exhibits as it produces innovative expositions of international contemporary art like Yayoi Kusama’s. Free on Sundays so a good day to visit the museum.

Museo Soumaya

This museum holds the personal collection of Mexico’s billionaire, Carlos Slim. It is named after his wife, an enigmatic monument and architecturally unique in Mexico City.

The best way to see the museum is from the top down. Head on over to the top floors where the largest number of works by sculptor Auguste Rodin outside of France lives and go floor by floor. The 70,000 piece collection is divided into thematic areas with art ranging from ancient huge ivory carvings to Mexican art and miniatures. You can find works by artists like El Greco, Claude Monet, Camille Pisarro, Edgar Degas, Vincent Van Gogh, Joan Miro, Salvador Dali, Jose Clemente Orozco, Diego Rivera, and more.

Museo Soumaya is open from 10:30am to 6:30pm and free to enter! Another must visit museum in Mexico City.

Museo Jumex

Another little gem right next to Museo Soumaya. It holds the private collection of Eugenio Lopez Alonso which includes works by Andy Warhol, Gabriel Orozco, Jeff Koons, Marcel Duchamp, among others.

They’ve also held great exhibitions like JAmes Turrel’s Passages of Light, Rogerio Duarte’s Marginalia 1, and Andy Warhol’s Dark Star. Museo Jumex has multiple activities for kids and free online tutorials.

Museo Jumex is open from 10am to 7pm.

Masaryk Avenue

The Fifth Avenue of Mexico City, Masaryk is lined with high end stores and restaurants. It is beautiful to walk and do some people watching of Mexicans out and about. Here you can see the incredible diversity of the Mexican people, courtesy of mestizaje, so next time you encounter a Mexican outside of Mexico, you never again exclaim “You don’t look Mexican!” It has happened to me multiple times and it is both a racist insult and a slap in the face disguised as a compliment.

If you got through my whole history of Mexico section, you will see that there were multiple indigenous cultures in Mexico already different one from the other before the Spanish came. Then after many deaths due to the conquest and epidemics, a lot of mixing between Mexicans and Spanish. My grandfather came to Mexico from Lebanon, and there is a rich Lebanese community in Mexico City that includes Carlos Slim, Mexico’s billionaire.

Anyway, walk along Masaryk for some (window) shopping!

Libreria El Pendulo

My favorite bookshop in the world, with an amazing selection and coffee shop. I love going here even if not for books but just to have a work meeting, even though I always end up buying a book. Curl up in one of the couches with a book with a coffee to unwind from a crazy day of walking around Mexico City.

It is cosy and beautiful!

Where to Eat in Polanco

Find some of my favorite restaurants (and some of the best in the world) here. All of these are more on the expensive side like high-end comida de autor Mexican restaurants Pujol (Tennyson 133), Quintonil (Isaac Newton 55), and Dulce Patria (Anatole France 100). These restaurants are a must with delicious tasting menus, traditional ingredients in new creative ways, and incredible presentation. In Virreyes- not Polanco but super close- inside the Torre Virreyes (Calle Pedregal 24), better known as El Dorito, you need to try Carmela y Sal and its tostadas de mentira. Honestly, Mexico City’s restaurant scene needs its own post.

Guzina Oaxaca (Masaryk 513) is more affordable great Mexican food. Try the taquitos de cerdito, ceviche de pescado con xoconostle or the mole with tortillas made right there. Peltre (Petrarca 253) is a cafeteria style eatery with amazing food all day long.

For Mexican food on a budget in Polanco, have some delicious (fried) quesadillas in Quesadillas Maria Isabel (Av. Emilio Castelar 14). Or tacos try El Turix (Emilio Castelar 212) for cochinita pibil and El Farolito (Av Isaac Newton 130), a Polanco institution, for tacos al pastor. My parents used to go to El Farolito on dates when they were 17, when the small grey napkins where they gave you the tacos were used to count the amount for your bill. Don’t forget to order chicharron de queso, a fried cheese folded tortilla.

For International food, try Belfiore (Av. Presidente Masaryk 514) if you are craving Italian, their pizza is the closest to Italy I’ve gotten in Mexico, with delicious pastas, and the octopus antipasto a must. Au Pied du Cuchon (Campos Eliseos 218) if you want great French and escargots. If instead you want great sushi in Mexico City, Iwashi ( Av Emilio Castelar 204) is the place to eat them. With only 14 seats around a sushi bar and no reservations, be sure to get there early (opens at 1pm).

For breakfast try Maque with its decadent concha con nata or the Saks Polanco (Campos Eliseos 133) for some chilaquiles verdes. Ojo de Agua (multiple locations but my favorite on La Fontaine 78) has great food, locally sourced ingredients, and amazing juices! I can write a whole post on just breakfast in Mexico, my favorite meal of the day, and I can debate with anyone how Mexican breakfast is the best and most varied in the world! There’s another El Cardenal (Av. Paseo de las Palmas 215)-well technically it’s in Lomas de Chapultepec but they’re right next to each other- but be aware that on weekends for breakfast it might be full.

A local coffee shop I love is Tierra Garat, their mocha frappuccino is the best I’ve had and my husband loves their Espresso Garat. They use Mexican chocolate and coffee in their drinks and snacks. There are two locations in Polanco but the one on Av. Isaac Newton 178 is always less crowded than the one on Masaryk.

There are a ton of amazing restaurants and bars in Polanco. Check out Polanquito area, a square between the streets of Emilio Castelar, Masaryk, Anatole France and Alejandro Dumas. For drinks check out Licoreria Limantour, Scotch or Jules Bar.

How to get to Polanco

Move around in an Uber, bike around, or walk.

For public transportation, Line 7 of the metro (orange) exit Estacion Polanco which is a good exit for Masaryk and Parque Lincoln or Estacion Auditorio for the west side of the Chapultepec Park, and Linea 1 (pink) Estacion Chapultepec east of the Bosque de Chapultepec and museums. To get to Museo Soumaya and Museo Jumex, Line 7 (orange) exit San Joaquin is the closest. MetroBus 7 also takes you to and from Polanco.

Things to do in Roma and Condesa

This is the hipster heart of Mexico City, you can find small local theatre performances, small cafes, and great restaurants. It is a chill area and very pet-friendly. If you watched Roma from Alfonso Cuarón, then you’ve seen what this neighborhood was like in the 1970s, a neighborhood planned for the upper class during the Porfiriato but that by the 70s it was a middle class neighborhood in slow decline. In the early 2000s, it started to become gentrified, and today is a fun and hip, young neighborhood.

Head to Parque Mexico for a stroll around lush trees and promenades of the park, and look out for the dog school that is held here for some furry therapy. Try an ice cream at Roxy. There’s another El Moro in Roma Norte for great churros with an instagrammable interior. Walk around the streets of these two neighborhoods as there are a ton of cafes, restaurants, and boutiques it is impossible to choose from.

Project Meditation Studio (Nuevo Leon 125, Condesa) is a great place to unwind from the busy city and feel centered once more, after your practice head over to Seven Buddhas (Guadalajara 93, Roma Norte) for some smoothies, cold press juices, and toast.

There’s an el Pendulo bookshop and cafe in Condesa, smaller than the one in Polanco, but great to spend hours perusing books, people watching, and even drinking in the one in Roma. For some craft bear go try Cerveza Cosaco or El Deposito.

Best for Nightlife

Condesa or Roma are the best neighborhoods for things to do at night in Mexico City. Head to Patrick Miller on a Friday hidden behind a black gate, or head to the Fuente de la Cibeles where all around there are bars like Gin Gin and Cerveceria del Barrio very famous among Mexicans. Walk around that area diving into the one that speaks to you the most.

How to get here- Roma/Condesa

Again Uber is the best and head directly to Parque Mexico or Fuente de la Cibeles, walk from there.

For public transportation use Line 1 (pink) exit on Estacion Juanacatlan.

Things to do in Coyoacán

Museo Frida Kahlo

La Casa Azul, Frida’s family home in Coyoacán, shows the intense connection between her, her universe, and her work. The Blue House is where Frida was born and where she died, even though when she was married to Diego Rivera she lived in multiple places. It, is of course, one of the most popular museums of one of the most popular artists in Mexican history. For a long time I believed she was overrated, until I finally got to study- ironically in a US college- her life, her suffering in life, her tumultuous relationship with Diego, and the meaning in her work. Today, I admire this great woman who expressed everyday struggles of the Mexican woman in her artwork, who people criticize for being a bad feminist because she stayed in an unequal and cheating relationship, but she trascended time and place.

Enjoy visiting Frida’s home which was turned into a museum just four years after she passed away preserving many personal objects and some of her most famous works like Long Live Life (1954), Frida and the Caesarian Operation (1931), and Portrait of My Father Wilhelm Kahlo (1952).

Frida Kahlo’s museum is open Tuesdays and Thursday-Sundar from 10am to 5:30pm and Wednesdays from 11am to 5:30pm. Tickets cost $230 pesos ($11 US) on weekdays and $270 pesos ($13.5 US) on weekends. You need to pay for a photo permit of $30 pesos ($1.5 US) to take pictures inside the museum. There are also special prices for Mexican citizens, teachers, students, seniors, and multimedia guide.

Mercado Coyoacán

Head to this market to have some delicious Mexican food and antojitos, like quesadillas, tlacoyos, pozole, birria, barbacoa, and so much more. Wander around its aisles for textiles, woven goods, spices, fruit, and vegetables. I will not add an where to eat section for Coyoacan as you have to go have some food at the mercado!

How to get to Coyoacán

Take the TuriBus southern circuit to Frida Kahlo’s house or an Uber. You can also take Line 3 (light green) on the subway south and exit on Estacion Viveros de Coyoacán, walk through this incredible park towards Frida’s house or the Mercado.

Things to do in Xochimilco

Trajineras

Spending the day floating along the canals of Xochimilco, drinking and laughing with my friends was such a fun way to say goodbye to Mexico before moving to Rome. The trajineras are gondola-like boats that cruise along the canals, with the driver moving the trajinera with a long stick. Food vendors, artisans and mariachi bands pass along their own trajineras and you get some food or a song or two.

The atmosphere is festive, with lots of young people drinking on trajineras, but you can also see a lot of families enjoying, especially on weekends. There are bathrooms along the canals where for like 5 or 10 pesos (a quarter of a dollar) you can use. Tell your driver when you need el baño. You can also visit a very weird island, Isla de las Muñecas, a very weird place where for some reason a ton of dolls heads are stuck all around.

I like the Nativitas Embarcadero and it cost us around $1,500 pesos ($75 US) for like 3 hours. We were about 10 in our group and it was so much fun! Bring your own drinks- my sister made mojitos in a huge Tupperware when we were waiting for the rest of our group to arrive- but you can also get huge beers and micheladas for cheap. I love chamoyadas with a litter of beer!

How to Get to Xochimilco

Take an Uber or a taxi, do not try to take public transport (gritty area) or drive- as you may drink a ton while on the trajineras.

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Things to do in santa Fe

Santa Fe is not one of my favorite areas as it is too crowded, with little infrastructure, and too sheltered. A lot of the rich Mexicans live in this area, and so some of the most expensive private universities are here. Big companies like Microsoft have their Mexican headquarters here. It has a lot of amazing restaurants, fancy hotels, business offices, and malls.

One thing I love in Santa Fe is Parque la Mexicana where you can walk, shop, eat, and it even has a pet-store. It is pet-friendly, obviously and very kid oriented.

KidZania is a great thing to do with kids in Mexico City. It is an interactive city where kids can learn about different professions, earn money, create things, make their own pizza, sushi, and gansitos, even an indoor climbing wall. The fourth Friday of the month from 8:30pm to 12:30am it is open to adults! We went there for my friend’s 25th birthday and had a ton of fun acting like little kids.

Things to do Near Mexico City

Mexico’s close proximity to many other amazing places makes it the perfect home-base when visiting Mexico. Check out my full recommended list on day trips from Mexico City.

Teotihuacan

I don’t even know how many times I’ve been to Teotihuacan, whenever a foreign friend or family member visited, for school trips, or just for a fun family weekend. I love walking along Calzada de los Muertos, close my eyes and imagine what this city that once held 200,000 people of different ethnicities was like. The buzz of people moving around, different languages, food, smells, I imagine the colors.

Not much is known about the Teotihuacan people, only what little was left behind after their demise around 600 A.D.- about the same time the Mayans disappeared as well.

Book a tour or venture forth on your own, but don’t miss seeing the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon in person.

So if you’ve gotten this far, don’t hesitate to book your trip to Mexico City and enjoy one of my favorite cities in the world!

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