When I think about diving and snorkeling in Mexico, Cozumel always comes to mind. If there were direct flights from Mexico City to Cozumel — there are from major US and Canadian cities — I would be in Cozumel every day! (To get to Cozumel from Mexico City you used to need to fly to Cancun and then either fly to or take the ferry to Cozumel, now there are some flights!). The Mayan Riviera has some of the best beaches in the world, with its white sands, clear blue seas, and perfect weather. Lots of people think Cancun, Playa del Carmen, or even Tulum when they think of the Mayan Riviera beaches. But honestly, the best places to snorkel are in the island of Cozumel. It faces the second largest barrier reef in the world!
Island of Cozumel
Cozumel is 647 km2, it is 39km wide and 12.8km wide. You can practically bike it in a day. Part of the municipality of Cozumel is the ecopark Xel-Ha, even though it is not on the island but on continental Mexico, it is another must visit in the area. The city‘s name is San Miguel de Cozumel.
In the south there are salt water entrances called Laguna Colombia, Laguna Ciega, and Chankanab. These are all salt water “lakes” but the island does have some freshwater cenotes. There are also archeological sites to visit in Cozumel like San Gervasio and El Cedral.
The eastern part of the island gets hit by a lot of waves, the western part protected by the island itself, has amazing spots for snorkeling with great visibility. A lot of cruise shipsdock on Cozumel island for the day, so it does get packed with cruise ship tourists from like 10am to 5pm, and after the island seems to calm down.
The island is mostly covered by jungle with zapote, chacah, ramon, and other tree species. In the south there is a reef barrier that is part of the National Marine Park. Cozumel has the following protected areas:
*Parque Marino Nacional Arrecifes de Cozumel with an extension of 11,897 hectares
*Parque Natural ChanKanaab with an extension of 14 Ha.
* Laguna Colombia with an extension of 674 Ha. and Columbia Reef
A little Cozumel History
In Mayan, Cozumel means “Isla de las Golondrinas”, or Island of the Swallows. It was a peregrine island to visit the sanctuary of the goddess Ix Chel, goddess of the floods, of pregnancy, weave, and, possibly, the moon. Kukulkán was also adored on the island of Cozumel. An oracle was on the island which is why historians think it was an affluent city.
When the Spanish came, in the beginning they sacked and took natives hostage. Then, Hernán Cortés arrived and liberated them in order to continue conquering the “New World”. In Cozumel, Gonzalo Guerrero, a previous expedition survivor, had married to the daughter of a Chactemal chief creating the first mestizo family and fought alongside the natives against the Spanish conquerors. Cozumel remained mostly unpopulated during the colony, until the Guerra de las Castas, Caste War of Yucatan, between 1847 and 1901 when lots of people fled the violence. The caste system in Mexico worked with the peninsulares (Spanish born) on top, then criollos (Mexican born Spanish), followed by the mestizo, then the descendants of the indigenous who helped the Spanish, and at the end other native indigenous groups.
Climate
It has a humid climate with abundant rain in the summer. The average annual temperature is 25.5 C, with hurricane season in between July to October, with the worst month being September. I would try to avoid going to Cozumel between August and October. The summer months are great because even when there are rains, the weather is mild enough to continue enjoying the ocean.
The best time to visit Cozumel would be after January 10 and before Easter. You get great weather and less crowds. Another great month to visit Cozumel is in May.
How to look for the best spots?
White sandy beaches are amazing for laying and enjoying the sun, and they make for great photos. These don’t make the best spots for snorkeling as marine life tend to stick around corals and rocks.
Rocky areas are the best ones. These will provide with so much to see like colorful fish, beautiful corals, sea urchins, maybe some eels, octopus, and lobsters, but be careful and respectful.
ADVICE: do not swim in the eastern part of the island. This area has strong currents and dangerous rip-tides! It is wild and beautiful so check it out, but it is not safe to swim!
Private and Public Beaches
In Mexico, water masses and 20meters surrounding this resource is part of the federation, meaning everyone can have access to them. Private property starts 20meters away from the beach, where the tide comes in and out, and only this is off limits.
Everything technically is a public beach and you can have access to, but to enter the Protected Marine Park you Need to pay a fee or to enter Punta Sur. It is always better to support local bars and get some delicious beach food and drinks.
Do use common sense and be respectful, you cannot use any of the chairs without consuming drinks or food from the bars or beach clubs.
1) El Cielo
On the south of the island, the punta sur, is my favorite place to snorkel, hands down. I’ve been since I was little mostly as a rest spot between dives. To get to the sandy beach is by boat and it is easy to see why its a local favorite. The incredible white sand and clear water, coupled with the speckled sea stars all over the ocean floor make for a heavenly sight, this truly is heaven.
Respect the stars while you are snorkeling around this starry sky. It is actually very shallow between 1 and 2 meters deep (around 3-5 feet) and there are parts where you can enjoy the view and ocean without swimming. If you swim a little deeper to about 3 meters (6 to 8 feet) you can see stingrays, lots of fish, squids, and even some octopus and eels. Be careful where you rest your arms and legs, once I touched a rock near a hole and from it an angry and scared green eel came out. We both startled each other! Of course it didn’t harm me, but they are territorial and I was infringing her land.
Snorkel around the rocks scattered around El Cielo and explore the area. You will find the beauty and how each marine animal seems to have their own personality, sort of like the fish in Nemo.
2) Palancar Reef
Palancar Reef is part of the protected marine ecosystem and a haven for scuba diving. There are certain areas that are amazing for snorkeling as well such as Palancar Garden and Palancar Shallows .
Because of its location, Palancar Gardens has great visibility of 30m (100 feet) and the reef is healthy. It is incredibly colorful, vibrant, and filled of marine life such as angelfish, groupers, moray eels, barracudas, parrotfish, jacks, and nurse shark. Palancar Gardens not only allows you to see the rich reef life, but it also is a beautiful dotted garden with star fish.
When I learned to scuba dive, my sister was too little to dive with us so she snorkeled behind us in Palancar Reef and she loved it! If you can freedive for a couple of meters, then you can enjoy more than just the shallow parts of Palancar.
3) Chankanaab
This classic spot is inside a natural protected area, but it is an eco beach park that requires an entrance fee of $23 US per adult. The reef is shallow with a depth of 4 to 7 meters (15-25ft) and you can rent your gear from their shop. Lots of cruise ships offer snorkeling experiences, but sometimes it is best to do it on your own. I suggest bringing your own equipment if you have it, or if like me, normal adult masks never fit right.
There are other activities that you can pay for at Chankanaab like dolphin swim and manatee experience but, even though I have swam with dolphins, I have educated myself and do not condone this type of tourism. You can have cocktails and food by the beach in your own cabana, or just go swimming and enjoy the natural wonders this sea lake provides. If you don’t want to support a place that cages animals, you can always park close by and swim to the reef.
Be aware that lots of cruise ship tourists swarm to this park with opening hours between 8am and 4pm. Regardless of the tourists, go far into the reef, see some sea turtles chilling, and you’ll feel like you are in another world.
4) Reef in front of Money Bar
This beech in front of this local bar is filled with sea fans, colorful fish, and manta rays. This reef is in pretty shallow waters at about 3-5m deep (10-15ft), so enjoyable by everyone as you can explore all the crevices in the reef.
You can go to Money Bar or just enjoy the public beach right next to it. That area of the island is beautiful, a bit secluded, and filled with rocks. So if you love exploring like I do, make sure you have the proper aqua shoes so you don’t hurt yourself on the rocks or step on an innocent sea urchin.
5) Playa Casitas
In front of this unassuming beach close to the airport, there are some concrete blocks from an old dock. From everything old and man made, sea life finds a way to repurpose and turn beautiful.
This place is a hidden gem loved by locals and non-touristy to enjoy a snorkel and swim along the rocks. Check out how life takes over and regrows despite how humans have messed with their environment. Find different types of fish, and maybe if you’re lucky some eel hiding away. The crystal clear waters in the Caribbean make Cozumel an amazing spot to see all kinds of marine life. This shore snorkeling experience is one of the best places to snorkel in Cozumel!
Where to Eat in Cozumel after snorkeling
Now that you are on the island or thinking about visiting, don’t just stay on the main street in front of the pier for overpriced and food aimed at tourists. Grab a taxi (for about $15US) and head to The Lobster House, an amazing restaurant owned by Cozumel locals.
As a reference, my dad doesn’t like eating lobsters at restaurants as they normally are not cooked properly and end up tasting kind of rubbery, but whenever we go to Cozumel we never miss a trip to The Lobster House. You can choose your own lobster and they’ll cook it for you, you don’t even need butter! For dessert ask for his sister’s pies!
Other than that, we normally eat at our hotel. My family loves the Presidente Intercontinental with amazing food, rooms, and a great dive shop, Scuba Du! I remember that when I was younger and waiting for our dive team to begin, I was snorkeling near the docks and a fish would not leave me alone. I got out of the water to and then back it, and it was there following me. It made me feel like a mermaid.
Don’t forget to respect marine life. Don’t take anything and be careful where you touch as some fire corals may be lurking and they sting, really bad!
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